The following has been copied and pasted from International Schuetzenfest.
Introduction by Ned Roberts;
From about 1888 to the late 1920’s, Harry Pope and Dr. W. G. Hudson were two of the most skillful, most expert offhand riflemen in the United States, and it’s extremely doubtful if there were any riflemen in Germany, Switzerland or any other country who could make higher offhand scores at 200 yards or 200 meters than either of these famous experts. In 1904, H. M. Pope had made six 10-shot scores of 97 and 21 of 96 at 200 yards offhand on the Standard American Target, while Dr. Hudson had made at least one 10-shot score of 99 out of a possible 100 on the same target at 200 yards offhand, as well as a 100 shot score of 922 out of a possible 1,000 on the Standard American Target. Pope had then made ten 3-shot scores of 74 out of a possible 75 on the German Ring Target at 200 yards offhand, and Dr. Hudson had made nearly as many equally high 3-shot scores on that target. All of these very high scores by Pope and Hudson were made at regular matches and in the presence of many witnesses.
In the July 1st 1922 issue of “ARMS AND THE MAN” we find such an excellent article on “Off Hand Rifle Shooting” by H. M. Pope quoted herewith:
“This is written with the hope that it will help riflemen generally to make better offhand scores; it is based upon my many years’ association with the best offhand shooters that this country has ever produced, as well as my long experience with riflemaking, and may help others to ultimate victory.
The Palm Rest. This is by no means the contemptible toy that most shooters imagine, but to most men a very useful article – an equalizer of men’s physical peculiarities and differences.
The very first thing to do on a strange range is to properly adjust the palm rest for length, endeavoring to shoot from one shooting stand only so that various uneven footings will not effect the elevation of the rifle. To do this one must stand at the firing point where one is to shoot, in a perfectly natural easy position, directing the rifle toward the target. Close your eyes as you settle into a perfectly natural position, then open the eyes and the sights should point level with the bullseye without the shooter having to bend the body either forward or back; if it does not, change the length of the palm rest until it comes up just right.
The proper position of the palm rest is important; it should be neither too close to the receiver nor too far away. If too close the left hand has to support too much weight; also movements of the holding arm will move the muzzle too rapidly. In other words, the control is bad; also the excessive weight tires one sooner. It must not be forgotten that the weight that the left hand is holding is considerably in excess of the rifle itself, due to the center of gravity of the rifle being outside of the support. If the palm rest is too far forward the weight of the rifle tends to force the palm rest open and away from the body. It should be so that the weight tends to close it together, without pull of the arm toward the body. The palm rest should not rest in the palm, but on the heel of the hand so as to avoid the flexibility of the palm and its muscular movements; in short the rest and forearm in proper relation to one another is a direct strut from the rifle to the hip without any muscular change of length. The left hand should be in perfectly natural position and with fingers lightly closed on the knob.
Position. This again will vary somewhat with individuals, but must be perfectly natural, easy and free from muscular strain. The weight should be about evenly distributed on both legs, which should be straightened out and not too far apart, as this means muscular strain, while the bones should carry the weight. As the writer stands, the feet are at an angle of about 60 degrees the left foot about 50 degrees with the line of fire, the right a little back or square in the line of fire, the heels 7 inches apart. Don’t Straddle.
In getting into position it is extremely important that one gets so set that the natural easy position directs the rifle at the bullseye; we have already set our palm rest to do so, therefore now in aiming let the rifle come to its natural position; then if, looking over the sights, it is right or left, rock backward letting the left leg hang, swing the body so the rifle will point at the bull, then rock forward letting the right hang down naturally and you will now find that the rifle points itself at the bull merely by assuming a perfectly easy position without muscular strain. If not perfectly set of course, one can direct the rifle to a considerable angle at either side, but when the nerves relax control of the strained muscles to the slightest degree, the muscles assume a natural position and the rifle swings off.
Aiming and Pulling. In a match of considerable length one should never try to pull every shot dead central. It can’t be done, and to try to do so only results in fatigue and wild shooting. No matter how expert, one practically never holds perfectly still; there is always a swing or tremor. Don’t outhold your wind, try to pull the first time your sights swing slowly into a position that you can pull cleanly, to score slightly above your average score. In doing this you avoid wild shots and many times you get off practically on center.
A good score is not made by a large number of perfect shots, but by the absence of poor ones. It does not pay to try to pull centers unless nothing else will do in a tight place, then be careful. If the sights will not settle before you feel short of breath, put the rifle down and breath very slowly and deeply two or three times; swallow your guts and try again. Be sure that you pull this important shot on a slow swing and with a perfectly clean pull.
The set trigger should not be extremely fine, but should be perfectly clean without any kick to the finger when it lets go. The trigger guard or lever should bring the trigger finger into such a position that a long forward reach is not necessary. The thumb should be along the side of the stock, not over it; in fact it should form a gauge to keep the trigger finger in such a position that the tip of the finger comes naturally just onto the trigger. This position you must learn to shot well; the finger cannot be away from the trigger when you want to pull, but in contact with it. The best way when aiming is to keep touching the trigger with the tip of the finger, then when the sight swings deep into the bull, a little bit harder touch lets it off. The object of doing this is to avoid sympathetic movements of the other fingers at the same time which disturb the aim. It is very hard to make a quick movement of one finger without also moving the adjacent fingers more of less, which movement disturbs the aim.
In aiming the rifle, the left arm should be along side, the elbow resting on the hip bone if you are so built; if not, then along side on the short ribs – not in front over the heart and stomach, which cramps the breathing and heart action. The right arm should have the elbow well up, not against the side; this pulls the chest open and gives the lungs more capacity; it also allows the use of a straighter stock, and a rifle with a straight stock shoots more uniformly than one with much drop.
Breathing. It is extremely important that you pay careful attention to this. One should breathe slowly and deeply. Do not allow yourself to breath fast, as it tends to make the pulse rapid, which in turn affects the aim. If one is shooting continuous scores with fixed ammunition, one is apt to get short of breath before the score is finished, and the pulse goes up. This is because the blood is robbed of the necessary oxygen when holding the breath. We compensate for this by deep low breathing, making the whole surface of the lungs work instead of a small portion of the same in ordinary use. As I lift my rifle to aim, I lift it high and fill my lungs fully; as I begin to settle I breathe nearly empty, then as the aim begins to settle, I breathe about half full and hold the breath till I fire; then at once begin breathing again deeply and slowly.
Weight of Rifle. For the finest offhand shooting, the rifle must be muzzle heavy. This is not, as most shooters suppose, wholly in the weight of the rifle, but in the disposition of the weight; as much weight as possible should be in the barrel. Weight in the stock and butt plate is useless except in absorbing the recoil. The use of a heavy butt plate is to be condemned. While it tends to balance the rifle when the same is carried free, its weight is entirely on the right shoulder in shooting and does not in any way change the weight supported on the left hand, in fact the rifle at the shoulder is a second–class lever in which the power is the weight of the rifle concentrated at the center of gravity, which should be well beyond the left hand. The fulcrum is the shoulder, and the work is the weight held by the left hand. If the center of gravity is in front of the left hand, then the weight held in the left hand is greater than the rifle. If the center of gravity is behind the left hand, the weight will be less than the weight of the rifle. It is necessary to hold a reasonable amount of weight on the left hand in order that the swing of the rifle may be slow and give one time to pull. It is possible to build a rifle to weigh 12 or 20 pounds and have it hold exactly the same. In other words except to absorb recoil, the shooting weight of a rifle is not what the rifle actually is, but how the weight is distributed. Anyone can prove these facts for themselves, as I have done for many years for my customers, by simply holding the rifle by the butt plate so that it will not overturn on a small platform scale, first weighing the rifle itself, then by supporting it at various places to see what the left hand actually holds, and not forgetting before you finish to tie a couple of points or so onto the butt plate in order to convince yourself that it has absolutely no effect on the weight held by the left hand, and there has no effect on the shooting balance of the rifle and no influence in slowing the movement of the muzzle in aiming.
Stock. The stock should be as straight as possible to conform with comfort. The cheek piece should be high enough so the when the eye is in line with the sights as it presses firmly against the cheek, as this materially helps steady the rifle. The cheek piece if hollowed should have no projection in front, but a straight run for the rifle recoils an appreciable amount before the bullet leaves the muzzle, and any projection rolls the rifle as it drives back and disturbs the aim, and this drive-back and roll will vary with uneven holds; consequently the bullet direction also varies and you get shots where you do not expect them. It is very important that the butt stock should be tight. A loose butt stock will scatter shots badly; so also will anything else loose, though to a lesser extent.
Telescope. This absolutely must be focused at the distance you intend to shoot. The eye lens should be focused first by looking at a blank sheet of paper or on a clear sky so that the cross hairs are dead black and distinct. This is never changed unless your eyesight changes. Focusing for distance is done with the object lens or intermediate lens only. Use plain paper or clear sky so the there is no object seen to confuse you. It is probable that different people will require different eye adjustments as they would spectacles. Set the telescope, on or off the rifle, on something so it will point on the target and not move easily. Then look through it and move the eye around quickly in every direction as far as you can see clearly, and notice whether the cross hairs appear to be stationary on the target; they should not appear to move at all. If they do, the telescope must be focused by loosening the front lens or the intermediate lens, moving it very slightly in or out until repeated trials show that the cross hairs do not appear to move, then tighten it carefully and look again to be sure you did not move it in tightening. This is the only position that will give correct shooting. It also should be the position of clearest vision, but it matters very little whether the vision is perfectly distinct or not, the cross hairs must be still.
In putting the glass onto the rifle, be sure the tube is wiped clean where it bears on the sides and slightly greased. Be very sure that the mounts and blocks are absolutely clean where they come together and that they are carefully tightened; I use a dime for a screwdriver. This makes them sufficiently tight without strain.
Keep a careful record of the readings of your telescope on different ranges and on different guns; you will then have no trouble shifting from one range or gun to the other. Once in a while test your telescope and mounts to see that everything is secure. Place the gun on something solid so that you can see through the telescope which is suppose to be properly tightened on it, look through the telescope and at the same time tap on the tube with a lead pencil; you will see the cross hairs jump with each tap, but they should come back each time to absolutely the same place. If they do not, something is loose, either with the mounts, or inside the scope. This happens, and any decent shooting is then simply impossible and a good gun and ammunition gets blamed instead of a faulty scope or mounts.
After each shot return your telescope to its proper position from which the recoil had jarred it. To do this, never take hold of the rear end and pull it back, but place the left forefinger on the barrel ahead of the telescope and slide the finger gently to place, the telescope will then come back each time to its proper place.
You may think a big fellow like you can hold as long as you like, but you can’t do it. I am a little fellow, but I can shoot rings around most large shooters. It is not the size and strength that count, but the nerve and judgment. With these instructions and a lot of careful practice you can attain in a short time what it took me years to learn. Study these methods and shoot all you can. Carefully note everything you do and you will find your work improving. Pay attention to the details.
Good luck be with you.
H. M. Pope”
It’s good to be back shooting. I took a look and my last time out to practice shooting was August of 2014. Except for getting out to the range for a short while in 2016 for a sighting check on my game rifles and a couple of shots at game, I haven’t fired a rifle since that 2014 date. My wife Jean got me off the couch and started me back into getting fit. In doing so I was exposed to obstacle course racing (the Spartan mud run stuff), got enthused, and have been fully engaged in that hobby since. I even did well. At age 60 I qualified to participate in the Masters Class (40+) OCR World Championships in Canada. No, I didn’t win, but I did come in well above half the pack. I don’t think that’s too bad when going against men 20 years younger. Anyway, I had fun, but I’m done competing. Competition started taking away much of the fun. Now I just want to stay in shape, run with the many friends I’ve made, help noobs, and have fun – AND get back to shooting, hunting, and fishing. (Since I have a wife that loves fishing, I need to fish more!)
Pertinent point regarding the above: In one of the resources the Rimfire Central forum pointed me towards, the author said something to the effect that strength and fitness will improve your shooting ability. I believe I just illustrated that point. Even after two and a half years not shooting, I shot a 440 (4x) and a 426 (6x) yesterday using my little Marlin 795. When I was shooting regularly my best was 429 (2x) using my Ultra Lux with a Boyd’s stock, spring kit, BRNO front globe and Gehmann Iris rear sight. Yesterday I noticed that I had much less issue with holding the rifle steady, even though over and over I caught myself using bad form. It’s going to take a bit to get myself back into using good form, but I’m excited at the improvement fitness has brought to my shooting.
25 Yard Irons Entry / 1-21-2017
Score: 440-4X (88, 90-2x, 87, 86, 89-2x)
Name/Age: Andrew Lindsay 61
Location: Allen, Texas
Gun: Marlin 795
Setup: Tech Sights, Sling, MCarbo Spring Mod, DIP Trigger and Trigger Guard
Ammo: Eley Sport
Notes: Shot at the Bullet Trap indoor range. Other than the dim light at that location that always plagues my old eyes, conditions were fine.
First rounds in over two years. Not bad…
I was looking for an easy way to roll up and hold the rear window of my TrekTop NX up while driving. I thought about using Velcro, but that meant stitching and or gluing to the top. Then I thought of what’s shown in the pictures. It works great. The ‘hook’ just passes through the hole in the roof’s zipper pull. The ‘shaft’ on each side just inserts into the end of the tailgate bar. I put nearly an hour’s worth of highway driving time on it yesterday when Jean and I went fishing. It was windy and the holders still worked like a charm. There was no movement or flapping of the window. For storage, the two pieces lay nice and flat under the cargo mat.
This prototype used one of the lightweight hangars. I plan on prowling the closets and finding one of the really heavy wire hangars and making a permanent model from the heavier stock. I’ll put rubber nibs over the ends or Plasti-Dip them for looks. But the metal doesn’t touch fabric anyway so I’m not worried about wear.
Cost: One coat hangar and 5 minutes (or less) of time.
I finally finished the finish 🙂 for the tube door mirrors. They came in chrome, but I sprayed them with the black ‘hammered finish’ Rust-Oleum. Since only one bold was used to affix the mirror to the door, I used QuikSteel Steel Reinforced Epoxy Putty to reinforce the attachment. I also cut the excess bolt material, smoothed it with the Dremel, and then painted it to match the mirror and door (depending on which side of the door). I’m pleased with the final results.
Both mirrors are the same ‘blind spot’ mirrors from O’Reilly Auto Parts. Each cost $18. As they are blind spot mirrors ‘objects are closer than they appear’, even on the driver’s side. The field of view is not extreme. I even like it on the driver’s side, because in congested and fast moving traffic I don’t have to turn my head to check any driver’s side blind spots. But I do need to pay attention so that I don’t cut in front of a vehicle that’s ‘closer than it appears’. It hasn’t been an issue so far, but I may look to see if there is a flat 4.5″ x 6″ mirror that I can use to easily replace the convex mirror. I think the biggest disadvantage of this setup will be that by using the epoxy I’ve removed the (easy) ability to fold in the mirrors for storage. Perhaps I should have just bolted them to the window frame. Time will tell.
I ended up getting the “Steinjager Front and Rear Tube Doors“, Gloss Black, Set of 4, from Morris 4×4 Center. These are inexpensive doors and for the most part serve me well. Following are some notes and observations you may find helpful if you are looking for tube doors for your Wrangler.
- They are inexpensive, but the welds and finish are quite nice. No issues there.
- The latch is very simple. If you are in and out of the vehicle a lot then you may want to spend more to get a latch that opens and closes quickly.
- The latch needed modification to work. I had to file off some of the outside edge in order for the doors to be able to shut. I had to file out (Dremel) the hole the cotter pin fits into, as the hole was too small for the key to insert without great difficulty. I also had to file off the raised edge of the door catch (see image) to allow the door to close. Even with all this the mechanism does not line up perfectly with the door catch. I need to firmly pull the door shut and on a couple doors I need to push down as I pull in. It’s not a big deal to me. I figure I got what I paid for. But most others that ride in the Jeep don’t care for the door latch functionality.
- I used a black self tapping screw and washer to hold the lanyard to the door frame plastic in front and the carpet side wall in back.
- I wish the tubing went lower, so I could fabricate a cloth slip-over that would do more to keeping out mud when I get off road.
- If I had it to do over, I’d spend more to get a door that has a mechanical latch and that allows for ready-made add-on accessories, such as covers, bags, etc.
- I added a couple of blind spot mirrors from O’Reilly Auto Parts. (See Mod’ #20.)
Tube doors installed, hard top off, naked and ready to head out to the OCR venue Conquer the Gauntlet.
Four Apps for Running Safety (link to Runners World article)
I use the Road ID application as earlier I had purchased the Road ID bracelet and full service subscription that will give first responders access to all my contact, health history, and insurance information. The application is easy to use and flexible.
I use Road ID not just for running / training. I wear / use it when participating in racing , including OCR, events. The ’emergency contact’ form I fill out with signup will take organizers way too long to find and use in case of a real emergency. The bracelet provides the contact number for my wife and gives the information necessary for all my other health related information. My wife and I both feel much more secure with me having the bracelet.
I finally got on the “Rugged Ridge Locking Fuel Door Cover, Steel – Black” (SKU 11229.03) from Morris 4X4 Center. The steel is hard. They supply four self tapping screws (not enough) with which you are to simply screw the cover over and onto the existing ring. I don’t see how the self tapping screws would ever get through the metal. The drill points were already dimpled, but still my new bit wandered on the hard steel; leaving a few holes slightly off center (bummer, but no one will notice unless I point it out). The screws supplies were dark, but not black. I substituted stainless steel screws, which I think looks better.
The cover was a smooth gloss black. I covered it with matte black Plasti Dip, so it would more closely match the bumpers.
If you buy this cover, be sure to take a good punch and really get a point where your drill bit won’t wander.
Overall, I like the cover.
Update: Doh! I noted later there are four tabs inside the cover. The four screws supplied were to have been screwed inside the cover and into the inside of the original recess., which would leave the original surrounding plastic largely unblemished should one want to remove the locking cover. Oh well, no matter. I like this look better anyway and have no intention of removing the locking cover.
Today I installed the “Bestop Trektop NX Soft Top with Tinted Side & Rear Windows – Black Diamond (SKU 56823-35)” that I obtained, as usual, from Morris 4X4 Center. The installation took me longer than the quoted 2 hours. It took me more like 4. And then it really isn’t complete, as the fabric is too tight for me to completely close the window and the tailgate bar won’t lock into position fully. But then again I did a lot of it in the dark. I’m sure that added some time. Also, it was cool and cloudy even when I did start in the daylight. I never got the opportunity to put the top in the sun as recommended. Also, the printed instructions pointed you to video tutorials on the Bestop web site. There were no instructions for the “NX” on the site. Fortunately their official tutorial was among the first to be returned in a search of YouTube. The correct video for the NX install is here.
Update: The pictures below are from two days later. The fabric has stretched enough that the zippers are all fully closed and the tailgate bar snaps in properly. The day was sunny and by the end of the day the wrinkles that show a couple places in the fabric had all stretched out. The top is smooth, the zippers all open and close easily, and it latches into position without any difficulty.
Mod’ the Mod’:
But I do think I’m going to need to make a mod’ on this mod’. I want to be able to roll up the rear window while it is still on the Jeep. For this I’ll need to install some straps that will hold the rolled up window in place at the top.
Today I also got the Bestop RoughRider Tailgate Organizer (Black, #54136-35) installed. As with much of my purchases I ordered through Morris 4X4 Center. I absolutely love these bags. The installation was simple and straight forward. No drilling on the Jeep was required, the assembly simply replaces the plastic access panel on the tailgate. The bags snap on easily and securely, yet they come off easily when you want to use them. The bags are very well made with a heavy nylon and plastic inserts to help them keep their shape. The top of the bags overlap the bottom, so if you are going about with your roof off they will protect the contents of the bags from water, mud, dirt, or whatever you throw at them.
The 36″ Hi-Lift Jack (HL364), with the Hi-Lift Handle Keeper (HL-HKB), was installed using Rugged Ridge Off Road Jack Mounting Bracket (Textured Black, #11586.01) from Morris 4X4 Center. The jack is, obviously, the high quality you would expect from Hi-Lift. The Rugged Ridge (RR) mounting bracket is likewise the high quality you would expect from Rugged Ridge. However, the instructions provided by RR stink. They give step-by-step instructions, including pictures, that provide a great level of detail. Yet they totally forgot to illustrate how the plastic OEM hinge guards fit into the steps. They provide a template for drilling the proper holes in them, so they can be refitted, but neglect to say or show in any pictures how this is to be accomplished. I spent quite a bit of time with the various bolts, washers, and spacers trying to figure out how the jack mount could be attached with the original hinge covers reinstalled. I’m still not totally sure if I have it as it was intended. But the door and mount are both very secure and the installation looks good. Now I just need to get a good padlock on the mount, so the jack doesn’t grow legs and walk off. I imagine I’ll spray the lock with matte black Plasti-Dip.
Short story: The rear head rests will lay back and out of sight unless needed. The modification provides a tremendous increase in rearward visibility. When there are passengers in the back seat then simply raise the head rests into position where they will lock in place and work as normal.
Details: The video (see link to YouTube below) describes the process that allows the rear headrests in a 2015 Jeep Wrangler Sport Unlimited to remain flipped back and out of the rear view field of vision when there are no passengers in the rear seats. When there are passengers in the rear seat then the headrests can simply be flipped back up. They will remain locked in proper upright position until the seats are released and flipped flat, at which point the headrests are released backwards normally. But when the seat is raised, the headrests will remain flipped backwards until manually lifted back into the upright position.
Video Instructions and Demonstration (hosted on YouTube)
Okay, so not really a “modification”, but an addition nevertheless. The cloth floor mats were nice, but plain. Being black they also showed everything. I’m not sure these will be any better, but at least I can easily take them out and spray them off after getting in all muddy. They were about 4 inches too wide, but were designed with lines along which you can trim to make them smaller. A minute each with a box cutter and they fit perfectly. I got them at Auto Zone.
Today I received the strong box in the mail and got it installed. The installation was straight forward and without any issues. I believe I’m going to like it.
I received the cover the other day, but didn’t give it a trial fitting. Today I got around to it. It’s fine for my purposes. Right now the fore/aft dimensions are a little too tight for it to pull completely over the rear fender, but just barely so. I’m sure it will stretch a bit. It may even stretch and fit by morning. It’s got a nice little indent and hole for the antenna, which also makes it easy to orient when placing it on the Jeep. There’s enough slack that it should accommodate accessories around the body, if they don’t stick out too far.
By-the-way, I did the turn the mirror over mod’ while the dealer was still in the car showing me the different features. He was amazed at the difference in visibility. That evening, when I took my wife for a ride, one of the first things she exclaimed was how great the visibility was through the windshield. She said it was like you were already outdoors. Very soon I’ll do the rear head rest zip tie / spring release mod’ and visibility will be as good a it can get with the doors and top still on.
Today I got a few more tasks completed.
- I installed “Rugged Ridge 11591.08 Textured Black 4.25″ Round Side Tube Steps“.
- They went on with relative ease. It was easy, but there were a lot of bolts to tighten.
- I spray painted the muffler matte black.
- I can’t stand nice looking vehicles that show an ugly silver, stained, and dirty muffler under the bumper.
- I just used Rustoleum high temperature paint on it (after buffing with steel wool and cleaning).
- I undercoated the vehicle using Rustoleum spray-on undercoat.
That’s enough for today 🙂
I absolutely can’t stand huge keys, so I made the following mod’ to my basic key.
- Use an blade to make a slice through the rubber key cover, going from the base to the top.
- Pull off the cover, using the blade to trim away some rubber that will be sticking through perforations on the inside.
- Use a Dremel cut off wheel to cut away the extra key material on the side opposite the RFID chip.
- Use the Dremel to cut off the plastic on the side of the RFID chip. Be careful to leave some plastic all around the chip and of course be careful not to damage the chip.
- Optional: Use some sandpaper to smooth off the trimmed plastic just a little.
- Dip the key into or spray it with Plasti Dip.
- Let the Plasti Dip dry.
- Use an X-acto knife, or similar, to cut out the key ring hole at the top.
- Done! A crotch/pocket friendly key.
- This works with the “basic” key only. This won’t work with one of the key-less entry keys. However it does work with the “smart key”. As I mentioned in the steps above, just be careful not to cut into the RFID chip.
- My Plasti Dip had thickened too much and I didn’t have any naptha to thin it, so this isn’t the smoothest finish. The nice thing about Plasti Dip is that I can remove it just like I did the original cover and then make a nicer application.
While the dealer was still in the vehicle giving me “the tour”, I turned the rear view mirror upside down. This vastly improves visibility through the front windshield.
I just picked up my Jeep today. Whoohoo!
Some would call this a “mid-life crisis”, but if that were so then it would be red, two door, and look incredibly like a Miata. No, this is “delayed gratification”. I’ve only wanted one since I was 11. (Possibly earlier, but the first I recall wanting one was when I was 11.)
The old 1999 Pontiac Sunfire has served well, but it’s dying now and it was time for a replacement that would serve Jean and I better for pulling the boat and taking trips where we need a vehicle with more room. Then I’m blessed with a wife that’s encouraged me to get a vehicle I’ve always wanted and that will make it easier and more fun to pursue my hobbies.
- Year: 2015
- Model: Wrangler Sport Unlimited
- Color: Tank Green
- Roof: Hard Top
- Wheels: Dealer upgrade to black 17″ wheels
- Tires: Dealer upgrade to Wrangler All-Terrain 245/75-17
Getting a soft top and some tube doors are the only big items planned. My activities don’t require that I trick it out with all sorts of fancy off-road stuff. But I will tweak it with a number of smaller and lower-cost modifications. I’ll post the modifications as I make them.
For my Lone Star Spartan friends that participated at the Houston event, here are the race results compiled, from the different divisions, into one Excel workbook. There are two worksheets. One for 16k (or more) courses and one for the 8k course.
Here’s a little montage on my quick and easy camp stove. It’s nothing more than a Weber RapidFire Chimney (charcoal starter) and 1/2 of a CanCooker rack, but it works great. Best of all it required no assembly or fabrication, just the purchase of two off-the-shelf products. I went camping/hunting this last weekend after a big rain. All the wood was quite damp, but with some dry kindling and one match I boiled water in less than 7 minutes from the time I lit the match; a total of ten minutes if you count the time I used to gather the wood and kindling. I used the ‘stove’ for every meal, even to grilling a steak and cooking a sweet potato on the rack.
There are a ‘zillion’ DIY plans on the Internet and off-the-shelf camp stoves available. Most all of them are superior to this method. But this one works great and takes zero effort.
I wanted an electronic caller, but it wasn’t (and isn’t) in the budget. But a little foray into the garage yielded the parts needed to put my own together. If you had to go out and buy all the parts, it would probably run about $80. It’s not wireless, yet, but it works and works well. At the bottom of this post are links to the document in PDF and Word format.
Well, a noob at this, bit I still settled down and made the shot count.
I saw the group trotting along at about 80 yards, so I had the opportunity to drop prone and put down the bi-pod legs. (1st noob mistake – can’t track running hogs with a bi-pod.) Got the rifle up on my elbow (hogs now at 40-ish yards) and discovered can’t properly/safely track hogs running that close with scope at 6x. (2nd noob mistake – but in my defense until three years ago I’d shot shotgun exclusively for almost 40 years.) Got the scope down to 3x, but they had spotted me. Now they put on a burst of speed. But I had enough presence of mind to realize I’d already screwed up twice. So I settled down and started to hunt just like I have with any other animal during my life; that is ‘think’, not ‘react’. I repositioned towards what I thought they would see as an escape route. I got my NPOA ready for that area and only had to wait a couple of seconds. Here they came; running 90 degrees right-to-left (sweet) at full bore (pun intended, bore/boar, get it) at about 80 yards again. Anyway, I just picked out the biggest one, tracked her, and pulled the trigger when steady on the mid-neck. I figured that would be a kill shot whether on target or high/low trailing (and I kind of expected trailing, not knowing how much to lead a hog at full speed). She when right down. I’ve now officially bagged my first hog.
Tonight I go for coyotes.
PS. Location was between Austin and Houston. Rifle was a Browning BBR 30.06 with a Nikon Prostaff 3-9×50. Bullets were Fusion factory loads.
I never thought it would happen in my lifetime, yet last year the entire Thanksgiving weekend went by and I never once heard the playing of “Alice’s Restaurant Massacree” on the radio. Whether you were anti-war or not (and I was not), the song was/is a classic. So for those of my generation that want to relive this American tradition, here is a link to the music. For those of a younger generation, well, I’m just not sure what to say except, ‘listen and learn’.
Alice’s Restaurant Massacree
Well, this is just fascinating. Until reading about it in this post at RimfireCentral I’d never heard of the technique of ‘barking squirrels’; that is, how to kill squirrels without hitting ’em.
As mentioned in the forum thread, the technique is described fully in a ‘Guns Magazine’ article from April of 1956. The full magazine may be viewed and downloaded (for free) from this link to the Guns Magazine website. The article (only) may be viewed &/or downloaded from this link: 1956-04_Guns-Magazine_Squirrel-Barking-Article.
Now that I have a reliably accurate squirrel gun, in my CZ452 UL in .22LR, I suppose there’s no excuse for damaged meat. I’ll have to try this technique and report back.
Sometime, way back, my father Vane Lamar Lindsay purchased two knives from Jimmy Lile. My brother Lamar Paul now has one and I (Andrew Lamar) have the other. Jimmy Lile was known as “The Arkansas Knife Maker” and also as the “Gentleman Knife Maker”. He was well known within the custom knife making trade and was generally known to the public as the creator and maker of the Rambo “First Blood” knife.
We had a family friend, Freddie Lindauer, who was also a craftsman – of virtually everything. He was a delightful and generous man that crafted many fun and useful items for our family as gifts. A couple of these gifts were leather notepad binders, a couple of which I recently found. As the Lile knife did not have a sheath and I really had no need for a heavy leather notepad binder, the next action was obvious – make a sheath for the knife out of Freddie’s leather.
Well, I haven’t done any leatherwork since I made my dad a pair of sandles back at Scout camp when I was 15 or 16, but I don’t think I did too badly. I think my dad and Freddie would be pleased.
Knife by Jimmy Lile, The Arkansas Knife Maker, 1933-1991 (Maker of the Rambo knife.)
Knife purchased by Vane L Lindsay 1944-2012.
Leather recovered from notebook made by Fred L. Lindauer 1908-1989 for friend Vane.
Sheath made by Andrew L Lindsay, 1956 – , in honor of father and friend.
Prompted by a post at RimfireCentral I’ve compliled a list of the sight equipment I am currently using on my Ultra Lux.
- CZ 452 Ultra Lux in .22 LR (link)
- Klinsky Stock, beech with walnut stain (contact Denny at: ajakubec [at] aol [dot] com)
- BRNO Peeps (contact Denny at: ajakubec [at] aol [dot] com)
- I’ve used the various inserts Denny supplies. I really like the 3.2mm clear ghost ring. But recently I’ve been trying the Lee Shaver “Lyman 20 and Anshutz Front Sight Insert Card” / LS004. I’m still experimenting to find the insert(s) I like to use. But I think I’m going to like them. The images below show the hash # insert sandwiched with the thinnest post. I’ve only shot once with it and it was at a very dark indoor range. I had a very hard time seeing the sight against a dark target. You can see how the sights ‘disappear’ against darker backgrounds. I tipped the post with some yellow paint, but it didn’t really help. I may try white on some of the lines to see how if it makes the sight more visible. But you will want to note that the inserts don’t fit into the BRNO front globe right off the card. You will need to trim the tabs and file/sand down the edges a bit. I took a tiny set of locking pliars and glued some rubber strips to the teeth, to make a soft-grip. I then sandwiched a set of the BRNO inserts over the Lee Shaver inserts. I (very carefully) trimmed the tabs to match. I then just used a file to take off some of the edge. It takes 15 or 20 minutes fiddling to get it right, but the effort is well worthwhile.
- The target shot below was the first tight group (7 shots) I got with the Ultra Lux. I was both conditioning the new barrel and getting the sights dialed in. (I was using the Lee Shaver 2mm / 4 post insert.) These would have been shots 40-46. I was using CCI Mini Mags. The distance was 25 yards.
- If I were to do it over, I don’t think I’d get the Gehmann iris. It’s great for punching paper on bright days. Even at my level of ability I get an improvement in accuracy. But for dimmer conditions or hunting (which is what I really like to do), the stock fixed iris that Denny ships with the sight is perfectly adequate.
Trimming a Lee Shaver Insert to Fit the BRNO Front Globe
(Click on the image to view it at full resolution.)
Well, I sold my CZ 452 Military Trainer in .22 LR and replaced it with an Ultra Lux. The Trainer shot great and with so many great reports I was hoping that I wasn’t trading down. But as I’m really enjoying offhand shooting with irons I wanted the longer sight radius the Ultra Lux offers.
I headed out to Rudy’s and set up a 25 yard range on level ground with an old river bank as my backstop. The weather was sunny, with a temperature in the mid-80’s, and a steady light wind (~5 mph) coming from three o’clock. In short, a beautiful day.
Other than cleaning the barrel from the preservative CZ ships with and adding the peeps, I had done nothing to the rifle. I wanted to establish a performance baseline before I started tweaking, adding a Klinsky stock, etc. For the peeps I’m using the BRNO peeps provided by Denny (you can find him on both RimfireCentral.com and czfirearms.us by searching for “Denny” &/or “Jakubec”). I’ve added a Gehmann 510 iris with a rubber eye cup. I’ll add a sunshade shortly (I sold the one I had with the Trainer). On the front globe I used a Lee Shaver 2mm/4post insert. The Lee Shaver (Lyman 20 and Anshutz, Part LS004) inserts need to be trimmed down a bit, as they are not made for the BRNO globe. I bent the lower post a little in learning to do the modification, so that probably impacted accuracy a little. As I’ll probably never use that insert again, it was the one for me to learn on.
I shot prone using a Caldwell Jr. front rest and the inexpensive Caldwell rear bag. (There are no benches to be found in a hay field.)
Below is an image compiled of the first rounds fired. (Click on the image to view it full size.) You can see both the improvement in the groups as the barrel became ‘conditioned’ and the migration of the groups as I worked to zero the peeps. The rounds were all CCI Mini Mags. The first six targets were made using the round nose bullets. The last was made using the hollow points. Note that the hollow point group opened up considerably.
After conditioning the barrel, which took fewer rounds than I anticipated, I tried shooting for the RimfireCentral “25 Yd Offhand 500/50X Match – Any Gun, Any Ammo” online match. Even with the hollow points, the bent front globe post, and no sling, I still shot better than I have before. (I’m a poor offhand shooter, but getting better is always good.) I believe the longer sight radius of the Ultra Lux helps considerably.
After that I tried a timed Appleseed Quick AQT. Boy-oh-boy am I going to need to practice and get down a cadence when using a bolt action. On stages 1 and 3, I shot way too fast and had considerable time left over. On stage 2, I shot way too slow and only got off 5 rounds. By the time I got to stage 4 I knew I was doing poorly and just wanted to get it over. My score reflected my haste.
Lastly I wanted to to try some other ammo and test out the discussion I started here at RimfireCentral regarding testing different ammo. I had suggested testing ammo by rotating rounds one at a time. For example: one round CCI at target one, one round Wolf at target two, one round SK at target three, one round Eley at target four, one round Lapua at target five, and repeating the sequence until all five targets had seven rounds (of the same ammo) shot into it; then see which demonstrates the better group. But the forum members suggested that the lubricant on the different ammo brands would cause the different ammo to behave out of character.
So I tried a brief test by alternating Wolf MT and Eley Sport. Assuming either of these two rounds should perform as well as CCI Mini Mags it appears the forum members were indeed correct. For a valid test of rounds, each round type needs to be conducted in its own group with a cleaning and set of barrel conditioning rounds fired before each evaluation group. Still, I’d like to repeat the test with a wider selection of ammo, then conduct the tests in the traditional manner, and compare the results of the two tests. Some would say that the first test is a waste of time, but (IMHO) at the worst I figure it is simply more trigger time 🙂
In conclusion: It was a beautiful day, I thoroughly enjoyed myself and being outdoors, and I think I’m going to like this rifle (a lot).
My wife really does love me! So we got home from our Anniversary fishing trip and get-away in the middle of the afternoon. We did a few things around the house and then relaxed. Jean was going to head over to some friends to help with some post surgical care and spend the night. So with nothing planned, Jean getting ready to leave, and a few hours of daylight left I asked if she minded if I went shooting. She didn’t, so I gave her a kiss and left.
I stunk. There wasn’t much daylight left when I got there, but I wanted to try out the new Gehmann 510 Iris I had placed on the BRNO peeps mounted on my CZ 452 Military Trainer. I also wanted to try out what I had learned reading High Power Champion Carl Bernosky’s article. I stunk. The last couple of targets I started getting my act together, but my score was worse than earlier this month. For my own debriefing purposes, here is the breakdown. (I want to record this for review when I next dry fire practice.)
- Didn’t dry-fire practice the new techniques enough. Probably less than 25 ’rounds’ dry fired. That’s not enough to get into any habit or muscle memory.
- Unfamiliar with the Gehmann Iris. I had it too closed for the lighting available. My shots improved when I opened it up, but I didn’t do so early enough. The ‘dimmer’ light may have helped with parallax reduction (see page 7), but not seeing the target well killed any parallax help provided.
- Unfamiliar with using the iris’ hood. Sometimes I had it touching my glasses and sometimes not. I totally messed up any consistency with my cheek weld.
- I never really spent much effort on achieving an NPOA with offhand shooting. But the only way I can get the sights to ‘sit still’ on the target for any length of time is to achieve an NPOA first. I didn’t figure that out until the last couple of targets.
- A few times I got the sights to ‘sit still’, but didn’t have the ‘automatic’ reflex to pull the trigger. When I consciously realized the sights were still then I jerked the trigger to get the shot off. Not good.
- While I may not need to take the rifle fully off my shoulder if I don’t fire a shot, I do need to take more time. I’m still into the “rifleman’s cadence” routine and it doesn’t serve my need for this kind of shooting.
- I was using the 2.6mm Ghost Ring in my front globe. I need to check it out more, but it may not be the best to use in dim light. A post might be better.
Married 29 years ago today and we still enjoy doing the same things together. The day after our wedding we were in Minnesota fishing and sailing. We’re not in Minnesota, but we did hop on over to Lewisville, got a room, and have been out fishing since early morning.
Outside and fishing with the love of my life; it just doesn’t get any better than this.
Thank you Lord.
PS. I didn’t mention we also hit several thrift stores. No big scores, but some handy items for others.
I got to head out to Rudy’s for the first time after he offered to let me shoot on his property. After measuring and clearing brush for about an hour, so I could shoot prone at 50 yards and still have an embankment as a safe background, I was exhausted, breathing deep, and my pulse was pounding. It was sunny, clear, and 97 degrees with a 37% humidity. That made it a 101 degree heat index – and I was right out in the sun.
I shot the CZ Forums’ 50 yard bench/prone match for scoped rifles and scored a big fat ZERO. With a Browning SA and a 4x Bushnell Banner scope, I just couldn’t make out the target rings clearly. Even trying with my Marlin 795, which has a 3-9 Cabela’s Caliber Specific scope on it, I couldn’t score. I don’t (yet) know if my eyes have just gone that far south, if it was the exhaustion, or maybe a combination of both, but I just couldn’t see the target rings well enough to sight properly.
Then I got the 25 yard targets set up. That was on level ground and I could shoot from the shade. That made a world of difference. I shot the CZ Forums’ 25 yard bench/prone match for iron sights. It took me four tries, but I finally got a perfect score of 70. I shot a 45, a 65, another 65, and then a 70.
CZ Forums’ August Online Bench/Prone Match for Iron Sights:
After this I shot two sets for Rimfire Centrals’ 25 yard offhand match for iron sights.
– More details coming soon…
Set One: Score 404
Notes: (1) The first target was just used for sighting. The last five were scored. (2) Bummer. This score really doesn’t count. Three shots that should have been on Target #1 I shot at Target #3.
Set Two: Score: 394
Note: The first target was just used for sighting. The last five were scored.
CZ Forums Online Matches for Iron Sights
(If you want to also participate in the scope match, you can find the details here.)
Iron Sight Match for August 2013
Home Page for this match at the CZ Forums is here.
25 Yards Benchrest
3 Shots at each Ace of Spaces – 12 shots total at cards
1 Shot at Center Bull
13 Shots Total
5 for each that hit the large spade on each card
10 for center single shot
Total Max Score of 70
Target is hosted on this site here.
Target may also be found on the tuffsteel.com site here.
CZ Forums Online Matches for Scopes
(If you want to also participate in the iron sight match, you can find the details here.)
Scope Match for August 2013
Home Page at the CZ Forums is here.
50 Yards Benchrest 5 Shots on Upper Half – 5 Shots Lower Half. You chose the which circles you want to shoot with the 5 shots to get the highest score. NOTE: The target states prone – prone is optional. ALL Rimfires Welcome
There are two matches going; one scoped and one irons. Both are run from the same thread here.
Targets can be purchased in bulk from American Target Company.
There are references to other places where smaller quantities can be purchased here.
Here are three that are downloadable and printable:
One from Bob: 1 – Tgt A9x2+scorechart-edit– print w NO Scaling
One colorful one I created: 2- Colorful A9x2
One that’s plain and simple created by another RFC member: 3 – A23 NRA 50yd Smallbore-no fill-2 bulls
Target notes from Bob: Be sure to set printer for “NO Scaling” to get Std NRA dimensions on paper. Check with a ruler against inch scale in lower right before using target. Once you get your printer settings correct you will be good to go. Shoot just 5 bulls for score. 3 printouts of this gives you 6 tgts, I (Bob) usually use the first one for sight check, then score the next 5. If you choose to use one of the 6 for sight-in, please do not score it ! Mark it with a big $.
Shooting Position: Standing offhand. ++see below
Any RIMFIRE Rifle
Sights: Any Scope (in Scpoe Class) or Any Iron sights (in Irons Class). No Aiming lasers. Red-dots OK.
Target: any NRA standard A9 / A23 BullseyeTarget ***(see below)
Range: 25 Yards, Measured from Muzzle
10 shots per Bull
++Standing offhand means: Rifle fully supported by your body only. Body in natural free-standing position. No Rifle rests of any kind. Slings are Allowed. Handstops are Allowed
++ Standing Exception
– If you have a medical disability that prevents you from shooting in the standing position, then please feel free to do what you need to in order to participate. This includes leaning against something for support. But please note that no type of rifle rest is allowed. Folks in a wheelchair, please participate by shooting “off-hand” from a seated position. I don’t want anyone to be excluded from this challenge, but the spirit of it is to get off the bench/bags.
1. Shoot 5 Bulls, 10 shots each. Score each target, total up the 5. A perfect 5-Bull score would be a 500-50X…[we will see about starting an Olympic Team fund for anyone who can do THAT every month ]
2. 5 thru 10 rings count, outside the 5-ring = zero
3. Scoring: We use standard NRA scoring practice of highest-ring scoring- ie, a shot in the 8 that clearly touches the 9 ring when plugged, counts as a 9, etc. A couple actual target pictures below illustrate this.
Also See Joe Haller’s great tutorial post on scoring the A23 here – http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums…d.php?t=293358 Joe’s post was about benchrest matches, but the same scoring technique applies here. Joe had a nice graphic of how to score the A23 target here as well.
5. Shoot as many 5-bull rounds as you want during the month. By last day of month, enter your best effort for the month, formatted per #7, below.
6. A MATCH ENTRY set consists of five (5) pre-declared bull’s-eyes that will be shot for score. Once you start shooting for score, your next 50 shots are all “counters”, and the set is complete after 50 shots.
All 5 bulls in your entry set are to be shot on the same day.
7. Enter your score and equipment info formatted as follows. PLEASE use this exact format. To post your entry, just click the “Post Reply” button and type or paste in your entry form:
<SCOPED ENTRY> or <IRONS ENTRY>, DATE
GUN SETUP: ___Scope ___Iron sights ___Sling
INDIV TGTS SCORES:
NOTES, WEATHER, or any other comments/excuses for how you did.
Pictures are nice but not necessary.
I (Bob) will gather & compile your entries, and then update our scoreboard (in Post#2) after the last day of each month. SCOREBOARD WILL ALWAYS APPEAR IN POST #2 OF THIS THREAD.
Feel free to share your progress throughout the month, but for actual match entry(s) please use this form, which has the word “ENTRY” at top.
Information and Rules
Information at RFC here.
NRA Smallbore Rules at NRA here.
NRA Smallbore Rules hosted here on this site.
The Official NRA A-23/5.
May purchase from American Target Company. (five targets, one 14×24″ sheet, $46 for 250)
1. Course of Fire: 40 shots prone in two stages. 20 minutes allowed for each stage. Your score must be taken from two consecutive 20 shot A-23/5 targets.
2. Sights: This will an Any Sight Match. Scopes of any power or Iron Sights are allowed.
3. You may use your 50 yard score from any NRA Approved or Sanctioned tournament you enter during the month of June. Or: You may shoot your targets during practice. You are allowed to shoot up to four matches each month, and post your BEST 40 shot score here in this thread.
4. Scoring the targets: This match worked on the Honor System. You may score your own targets, or you may have someone else score them for you. (Another shooter, or your WIFE)
5. Post your 40 shot score at the bottom of this thread.
Please use our standard format on the first two lines. It makes it easier for the Statistical Volunteer to do his job when setting up the Score Bulletin.
Score. Name. City, State. (screen name) (Age if a Junior)
Make of rifle. Make of score & power, (or make of iron sights) Ammo used.
On third and 4th lines you may write in other information about your equipment, weather, excuses, etc.
397-12x John Doe, Morton Grove, Illinois (Age 15)
Remington M-37. Unertl 1.5″- 16 power. Wolf Match Target.
Custom thumbhole stock. Kenyon trigger. Shifting winds to 15mph.
Light rain during first stage. Got caught by the wind on the last shot, and dropped 3 points.
Scores are posted in individual threads by month found here.
Instructions and Rules
NRA Silhouette Rules at NRA web site.
NRA Silhouette Rulebook downloadable from this site.
NRA Silhouette Flier (2013) downloadable from this site – coming soon.
Match #1 – NRA Standing – 40, 60, 77, & 100 Meters or Yards (traditional Smallbore Rifle Silhouette)
With steel targets or paper targets. Targets may be 1/5th or 3/8th size.
Match #2 – RFC Benchrest – All animals at 100 yards
With steel targets or paper targets. Targets may be 1/5th or 3/8th size.
Match #3 – RFC Benchrest – 60, 100, 125 & 200 yards.
With steel targets or paper targets. Targets may be 1/5th or 3/8th size.
Matches 2 & 3 will follow the traditional NRA silhouette rules pertaining to equipment, time limits, etc. or be classified as “Open” to include benchrest styled rifles.
Q&A, TIPS, TRICKS, and DISCUSSIONS are found on the RFC thread here.
MATCH# (1, 2 or 3) Meters or Yards
RIFLE DIVISION: (STANDARD, HUNTING or OPEN for match 2 & 3)
SHOOTER CLASS: (M, AAA, AA, A, or B)
FIREARM: Savage MKII F
SIGHTS: (Scope – “6-18x Nikon target dot”, Aperature – “Lyman”, Open)
AMMO: (Type of ammo used ex: Wolf Extra Match)
NAME: Sal Whouette
HOMERANGE: Scranton area, Pa.
SIZE TARGET: 1/5 Steel
Total Score – 17
Report results on the RFC forum. Scores are reported in separate threads by month here.
Derivation of Riflescope Parallax Equation Workbook
Click the link below to open/download an Excel (xlsx) workbook that allows you to enter your scope’s values and visually observe on a graph the amount of parallax errors which might be incurred. The workbook and calculations are derived from the article/post: “Derivation of Riflescope Parallax Equation” by Michael G. Tappy, December 30, 2008 (Revision 1: 14 Jan. 2009). The article is posted at the forum on rimfirecentral.com.
Link to open/download the workbook: Derivation of Riflescope Parallax Equation.xlsx
Note: The workbook does assume you have either read the article or have a basic understanding of parallax errors.
Content coming soon.
Content coming soon.
Content coming soon.
Aperture Sights – Parallax Suppression with a Target Rifle Aperture Sight
Article on peep sights and the suggestion that sight alignment, in the traditional sense, does not affect the point of aim. A must-read for those that use peep sights or are debating irons versus optics.
Authors: Robert J. Burdge and Douglas A. Kerr, P.E.